The first form of Kebaya thought was originates in the court of the fifteenth century Javanese Majapahit Empire, as a means to blend the existing female Kemban, upper body wrap of the aristocratic women, to be more modest and acceptable. Throughout the last period of Majapahit kingdom, Islamic influence began to develop in coastal Javanese towns, thus there was a need to adapt the Javanese fashion to the newly used Islam religion. The tailored blouse, often made from sensitive sheer fabrics, were worn over kemban torso wrap to cover the back, shoulders and arms, in order for court females to appear more modest. Aceh, Riau and Johor Kingdoms and Northern Sumatra adopted the Javanese style kebaya as a means of social expression of status with the more alus or refined Javanese overlords.The name of Kebaya as a particular clothing type was noted by the Portuguese when they landed in Indonesia. Kebaya is associated with a type of shirt worn by Indonesian women in 15th or 16th century. Prior to 1600, kebaya on Java island were considered as a set aside clothing to be worn only by royal family, aristocrats (bangsawan) and small nobility, in an era when peasant men and many women walked publicly bare-chested.An elderly Sundanese woman putting on simple kebaya, kain batik and batik headcloth, West Java.Later on, the kebaya also being adopted by commoners, the peasant women in Java. Up until this day in countryside agricultural villages of Coffee, farmer women still utilizes simple kebaya, especially among elderly women. The daily kebaya worn by peasant were of simple materials and secured with simple pin or peniti (safety pin).Slowly it normally spread to neighbouring areas through trade, diplomacy and social interactions to Malacca, Bali, Sumatra, Borneo, Sulawesi and the Sultanate of Sulu and Mindanao.[4][5][6] Javanese kebaya as known today were noted by Restaurant stamford grand Raffles in 1817, as being of silk, brocade and velvet, with the core opening of the blouse fastened by brooches, rather than button and button-holes within the torso wrap kemben, the kain — an unstitched wrap fabric several metres long, wrongly termed sarong in English (a sarung, Malaysian accent: sarong) which is sewed to form a tube.After hundreds of years of regional acculturation, the garments have grown to be highly localised expressions of ethnic culture, artistry and tailoring customs.The earliest photographics evidence of the kebaya as known today date from 1857 of Javanese, Peranakan and Orientalist stylesOutfit componentsJavanese kebaya dark silk secured with kerongsang brooch, and kain batik as skirtThe quintessential kebaya is the Javanese kebaya as known today is essentially unchanged as noted by Raffles in 1817. It includes the blouse (kebaya) of cotton, silk, lace, brocade or velvet, with the central opening of the blouse fastened by a core brooch (kerongsang) where the flaps of the blouse meet, wore over kain.Kebaya blouseThe blouse is commonly semi-transparent and traditionally worn over the torso wrap or kemben. Kebaya blouse can be tailored tight-fitting or loose-fitting, created from various materials, from cotton or velvet, to fine silk, exquisite lace and brocade, desorated with stitching or glittering sequins. Today, the undergarment use under kebaya usually either corset, bra or camisole with matching colour. The particular more simple and modest undergarment wore by common town women, usually elderly women, is called kutang, which is a bra-like undergarment made from cotton.Kerongsang broochTraditional kebaya had no buttons down the front. To secure the shirt openings in front side, a decorative metal brooch is applied on the upper body. It can be made from brass, iron, metallic or gold, decorated with semi-precious stones. A typical three-piece kerongsang is composed of a kerongsang ibu (mother piece) that is bigger and heavier than the other two kerongsang anak (child piece). Kerongsang brooch often produced from gold necklaces and considered as the sign of social status of aristocracy, wealth and the aristocracy, however for commoners and peasant women, simple and simple kebaya often only fastened with modest safety pin (peniti).Kain sarong or skirtKain is a long decorated clothes covered around the hips, secured with rope and used as a kind of sarong or skirt. The particular skirt or kain is an unstitched fabric cover around three metres long. The term sarong in The english language is erroneous, the sarung (Malaysian accent: sarong) is actually stitched together to form a tube, kain is unstitched, requires a helper to dress (literally wrap) the wearer and is held in place with a string (tali), then folded this string at the waist, then kept with a belt (sabuk or ikat pinggang), which may hold a ornamental pocket. In Java, Bali and Sunda, the kain is commonly batik which may be from plain stamped cotton to elaborately hand-painted batik tulis stitched silk with gold twine. In Lampung, the kain is the traditional tapis, an elaborate gold-thread stitched ikat with small mica discs.[9] Sumatra, Flores, Lemata Timor, and other islands commonly use kain of ikat or songket. Sumba is famous for kain decorated with lau hada: shells and beads.
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The first form of Kebaya thought was originates in the court of the fifteenth century Javanese Majapahit Empire, as a means to blend the existing female Kemban, upper body wrap of the aristocratic women, to be more modest and acceptable. Throughout the last period of Majapahit kingdom, Islamic influence began to develop in coastal Javanese towns, thus there was a need to adapt the Javanese fashion to the newly used Islam religion. The tailored blouse, often made from sensitive sheer fabrics, were worn over kemban torso wrap to cover the back, shoulders and arms, in order for court females to appear more modest. Aceh, Riau and Johor Kingdoms and Northern Sumatra adopted the Javanese style kebaya as a means of social expression of status with the more alus or refined Javanese overlords.The name of Kebaya as a particular clothing type was noted by the Portuguese when they landed in Indonesia. Kebaya is associated with a type of shirt worn by Indonesian women in 15th or 16th century. Prior to 1600, kebaya on Java island were considered as a set aside clothing to be worn only by royal family, aristocrats (bangsawan) and small nobility, in an era when peasant men and many women walked publicly bare-chested.An elderly Sundanese woman putting on simple kebaya, kain batik and batik headcloth, West Java.Later on, the kebaya also being adopted by commoners, the peasant women in Java. Up until this day in countryside agricultural villages of Coffee, farmer women still utilizes simple kebaya, especially among elderly women. The daily kebaya worn by peasant were of simple materials and secured with simple pin or peniti (safety pin).Slowly it normally spread to neighbouring areas through trade, diplomacy and social interactions to Malacca, Bali, Sumatra, Borneo, Sulawesi and the Sultanate of Sulu and Mindanao.[4][5][6] Javanese kebaya as known today were noted by Restaurant stamford grand Raffles in 1817, as being of silk, brocade and velvet, with the core opening of the blouse fastened by brooches, rather than button and button-holes within the torso wrap kemben, the kain — an unstitched wrap fabric several metres long, wrongly termed sarong in English (a sarung, Malaysian accent: sarong) which is sewed to form a tube.After hundreds of years of regional acculturation, the garments have grown to be highly localised expressions of ethnic culture, artistry and tailoring customs.The earliest photographics evidence of the kebaya as known today date from 1857 of Javanese, Peranakan and Orientalist stylesOutfit componentsJavanese kebaya dark silk secured with kerongsang brooch, and kain batik as skirtThe quintessential kebaya is the Javanese kebaya as known today is essentially unchanged as noted by Raffles in 1817. It includes the blouse (kebaya) of cotton, silk, lace, brocade or velvet, with the central opening of the blouse fastened by a core brooch (kerongsang) where the flaps of the blouse meet, wore over kain.Kebaya blouseThe blouse is commonly semi-transparent and traditionally worn over the torso wrap or kemben. Kebaya blouse can be tailored tight-fitting or loose-fitting, created from various materials, from cotton or velvet, to fine silk, exquisite lace and brocade, desorated with stitching or glittering sequins. Today, the undergarment use under kebaya usually either corset, bra or camisole with matching colour. The particular more simple and modest undergarment wore by common town women, usually elderly women, is called kutang, which is a bra-like undergarment made from cotton.Kerongsang broochTraditional kebaya had no buttons down the front. To secure the shirt openings in front side, a decorative metal brooch is applied on the upper body. It can be made from brass, iron, metallic or gold, decorated with semi-precious stones. A typical three-piece kerongsang is composed of a kerongsang ibu (mother piece) that is bigger and heavier than the other two kerongsang anak (child piece). Kerongsang brooch often produced from gold necklaces and considered as the sign of social status of aristocracy, wealth and the aristocracy, however for commoners and peasant women, simple and simple kebaya often only fastened with modest safety pin (peniti).Kain sarong or skirtKain is a long decorated clothes covered around the hips, secured with rope and used as a kind of sarong or skirt. The particular skirt or kain is an unstitched fabric cover around three metres long. The term sarong in The english language is erroneous, the sarung (Malaysian accent: sarong) is actually stitched together to form a tube, kain is unstitched, requires a helper to dress (literally wrap) the wearer and is held in place with a string (tali), then folded this string at the waist, then kept with a belt (sabuk or ikat pinggang), which may hold a ornamental pocket. In Java, Bali and Sunda, the kain is commonly batik which may be from plain stamped cotton to elaborately hand-painted batik tulis stitched silk with gold twine. In Lampung, the kain is the traditional tapis, an elaborate gold-thread stitched ikat with small mica discs.[9] Sumatra, Flores, Lemata Timor, and other islands commonly use kain of ikat or songket. Sumba is famous for kain decorated with lau hada: shells and beads.
