The earliest form of Kebaya thought was originates in the court of the 15th century Javanese Majapahit Empire, as a way to blend the existing female Kemban, torso wrap of the aristocratic women, to be more modest and acceptable. During the last period of Majapahit kingdom, Islamic influence began to grow in coastal Javanese towns, thus there was a need to adapt the Javanese fashion to the newly followed Islam religion. The tailored blouse, often made from sensitive sheer fabrics, were worn over kemban torso cover to cover the back, shoulders and arms, in order for court girls to appear more moderate. Aceh, Riau and Johor Kingdoms and Northern Sumatra adopted the Javanese style kebaya as a means of social expression of status with the more alus or refined Javanese overlords.The name of Kebaya as a particular clothing type was noted by the Portuguese when they landed in Indonesia. Kebaya is associated with a type of shirt worn by Indonesian women in 15th or sixteenth century. Prior to 1600, kebaya on Java island were considered as a set aside clothing to be worn only by royal family, aristocrats (bangsawan) and small nobility, within an era when peasant as well as many women walked publicly bare-chested.A good elderly Sundanese woman wearing simple kebaya, kain batik and batik headcloth, Western Java.Later on, the kebaya also being adopted by commoners, the peasant women in Java. Until this day in non-urban agricultural villages of Java, farmer women still utilizes simple kebaya, especially among elderly women. The daily kebaya worn by peasant were of simple materials and secured with simple pin or peniti (safety pin).Slowly it naturally spread to neighbouring areas through trade, diplomacy and social interactions to Malacca, Bali, Sumatra, Borneo, Sulawesi and the Sultanate of Sulu and Mindanao.[4][5][6] Javanese kebaya as known today were noted by Stamford Raffles in 1817, as being of silk, brocade and velvet, with the central opening of the blouse fastened by brooches, rather than button and button-holes on the torso wrap kemben, the kain — an unstitched wrap fabric several metres long, wrongly termed sarong in The english language (a sarung, Malaysian highlight: sarong) which is sewed to form a pipe.After hundreds of years of regional acculturation, the garments are becoming highly localized expressions of ethnic culture, artistry and tailoring traditions.The earliest photographics evidence of the kebaya as known today date from 1857 of Javanese, Peranakan and Orientalist stylesCostume componentsJavanese kebaya black silk secured with kerongsang brooch, and kain batik as skirtThe quintessential kebaya is the Javanese kebaya as known today is essentially unchanged as noted by Raffles in 1817. It includes the blouse (kebaya) of 100 % cotton, silk, lace, brocade or velvet, with the central opening of the shirt fastened by a core brooch (kerongsang) where the flaps of the shirt meet, wore over kain.Kebaya blouseThe blouse is commonly semi-transparent and traditionally worn over the torso wrap or kemben. Kebaya blouse can be tailored tight-fitting or loose-fitting, produced from various materials, from cotton or velvet, to fine silk, exquisite ribbons and brocade, desorated with stitching or glittering sequins. Today, the undergarment use under kebaya usually either corset, bra or camisole with matching colour. The particular more guaranteed modest undergarment wore by common town women, usually elderly women, is called kutang, which is a bra-like undergarment produced from cotton.Kerongsang broochTraditional kebaya had no buttons down the front. To secure the shirt openings in front side, a decorative metal brooch is applied on the upper body. It can be made from brass, iron, sterling silver or gold, decorated with semi-precious stones. A normal three-piece kerongsang is composed of a kerongsang ibu (mother piece) that is larger and heavier than the other two kerongsang anak (child piece). Kerongsang brooch often made from gold jewellery and considered as the sign of social status of aristocracy, wealth and the aristocracy, however for commoners and peasant women, guaranteed simple kebaya often only attached with modest safety pin (peniti).Kain sarong or skirtKain is a long decorated clothes wrapped around the hips, guaranteed with rope and used as a kind of sarong or skirt. The skirt or kain is an unstitched fabric cover around three metres long. The phrase sarong in British is erroneous, the sarung (Malaysian accent: sarong) is actually stitched together to form a tube, kain is unstitched, requires a helper to dress (literally wrap) the wearer and is held in place with a string (tali), then folded this string at the waist, then kept with a belt (sabuk or ikat pinggang), which may hold a ornamental pocket. In Java, Bali and Sunda, the kain is commonly batik which may be from plain stamped cotton to elaborately hand-painted batik tulis embroidered silk with gold thread. In Lampung, the kain is the traditional tapis, an elaborate gold-thread embroidered ikat with small mica discs.[9] Sumatra, Flores, Lemata Timor, and other islands commonly use kain of ikat or songket. Sumba is famous for kain decorated with lau hada: shells and beads.source image kebaya muslim 2019 from koleksibajulengkap.com Thank for Visiting this Page
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