The first form of Kebaya considered was originates in the court of the 15th century Javanese Majapahit Kingdom, as a way to blend the existing female Kemban, body wrap of the aristocratic women, to be more modest and acceptable. During the last period of Majapahit kingdom, Islamic influence commenced to grow in coastal Javanese towns, thus there was a need to adapt the Javanese fashion to the newly followed Islam religion. The customized blouse, often created from delicate sheer fabrics, were worn over kemban torso wrap to cover the back again, shoulders and arms, in order for court ladies to appear more modest. Aceh, Riau and Johor Kingdoms and Northern Sumatra adopted the Javanese style kebaya as a means of social expression of status with the more alus or refined Javanese overlords.The name of Kebaya as a particular clothing type was observed by the Portuguese when they landed in Indonesia. Kebaya is associated with a type of shirt worn by Indonesian women in 15th or 16th century. Prior to 1600, kebaya on Java island were considered as a set aside clothing to be worn only by royal family, aristocrats (bangsawan) and minor nobility, in an era when peasant men and many women walked publicly bare-chested.An elderly Sundanese woman putting on simple kebaya, kain batik and batik headcloth, West Java.Later on, the kebaya also being used by commoners, the peasant women in Java. Up until this day in countryside agricultural villages of Java, farmer women still uses simple kebaya, especially among elderly women. The everyday kebaya worn by peasant were of simple materials and secured with simple pin or peniti (safety pin).Slowly it naturally spread to neighbouring areas through trade, diplomacy and social interactions to Malacca, Bali, Sumatra, Borneo, Sulawesi and the Sultanate of Sulu and Mindanao.[4][5][6] Javanese kebaya as known today were noted by Stamford Raffles in 1817, as being of silk, brocade and velvet, with the central opening of the blouse fastened by brooches, rather than button and button-holes on the torso cover kemben, the kain — an unstitched wrap fabric several metres long, erroneously termed sarong in English (a sarung, Malaysian accentuate: sarong) which is sewed to form a pipe.After hundreds of years of regional acculturation, the garments are becoming highly localised expressions of ethnic culture, artistry and tailoring customs.The earliest photographics proof of the kebaya as known today date from 1857 of Javanese, Peranakan and Orientalist stylesOutfit componentsJavanese kebaya black silk secured with kerongsang brooch, and kain batik as skirtThe essential kebaya is the Javanese kebaya as known today is essentially unchanged as noted by Raffles in 1817. It contains the blouse (kebaya) of natural cotton, silk, lace, brocade or velvet, with the key opening of the blouse fastened by a central brooch (kerongsang) where the flaps of the shirt meet, wore over kain.Kebaya blouseThe blouse is commonly semi-transparent and traditionally worn over the torso wrap or kemben. Kebaya blouse can be tailored tight-fitting or loose-fitting, created from various materials, from cotton or velvet, to fine silk, exquisite ribbons and brocade, desorated with stitching or glittering sequins. Today, the undergarment use under kebaya usually either corset, bra or camisole with matching colour. The particular more simple and modest undergarment wore by common village women, usually elderly women, is called kutang, which is a bra-like undergarment made from cotton.Kerongsang broochTraditional kebaya had no buttons down the front. To secure the blouse openings in front side, a decorative metal brooch is applied on the chest. It can be made from brass, iron, sterling silver or gold, decorated with semi-precious stones. An average three-piece kerongsang is composed of a kerongsang ibu (mother piece) that is bigger and heavier than the other two kerongsang anak (child piece). Kerongsang brooch often produced from gold precious jewelry and regarded as the sign of social status of aristocracy, wealth and the aristocracy, however for commoners and peasant women, guaranteed basic kebaya often only fastened with modest safety pin (peniti).Kain sarong or skirtKain is a long decorated clothes covered around the hips, guaranteed with rope and used as a kind of sarong or skirt. The skirt or kain is an unstitched fabric wrap around three metres long. The phrase sarong in British is erroneous, the sarung (Malaysian accent: sarong) is actually stitched together to form a tube, kain is unstitched, requires a helper to dress (literally wrap) the wearer and is held in place with a string (tali), then folded this string at the waist, then kept with a belt (sabuk or ikat pinggang), which may hold a decorative pocket. In Java, Bali and Sunda, the kain is commonly batik which may be from plain stamped cotton to elaborately hand-painted batik tulis embroidered silk with gold twine. In Lampung, the kain is the traditional tapis, an elaborate gold-thread stitched ikat with small mica discs.[9] Sumatra, Flores, Lemata Timor, and other islands commonly use kain of ikat or songket. Sumba is famous for kain decorated with lau hada: shells and beads.source image kebaya muslim modern 2019 from hijabtuts.com Thank You for Reading this Article
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