The earliest form of Kebaya believed was originates in the court of the 15th century Javanese Majapahit Kingdom, as a means to blend the existing female Kemban, torso wrap of the aristocratic women, to be more modest and acceptable. Throughout the last period of Majapahit kingdom, Islamic influence commenced to develop in coastal Javanese towns, thus there was a need to adapt the Javanese fashion to the newly used Islam religion. The customized blouse, often produced from delicate sheer fabrics, were worn over kemban torso cover to cover the back, shoulders and arms, in order for court ladies to appear more humble. Aceh, Riau and Johor Kingdoms and Northern Sumatra adopted the Javanese style kebaya as a means of social expression of status with the more alus or refined Javanese overlords.The name of Kebaya as a particular clothing type was observed by the Portuguese when they landed in Philippines. Kebaya is associated with a type of shirt worn by Indonesian women in 15th or sixteenth century. Prior to 1600, kebaya on Java island were considered as a set aside clothing to be worn only by royal family, aristocrats (bangsawan) and minor nobility, in an era when peasant as well as many women walked publicly bare-chested.An elderly Sundanese woman wearing simple kebaya, kain batik and batik headcloth, Western Java.Later on, the kebaya also being followed by commoners, the peasant women in Java. Up until this day in rural agricultural villages of Java, farmer women still uses simple kebaya, especially among elderly women. The everyday kebaya worn by peasant were of simple materials and secured with simple pin or peniti (safety pin).Slowly it normally spread to neighbouring areas through trade, diplomacy and social interactions to Malacca, Bali, Sumatra, Borneo, Sulawesi and the Sultanate of Sulu and Mindanao.[4][5][6] Javanese kebaya as known today were noted by Restaurant stamford grand Raffles in 1817, as being of silk, brocade and velvet, with the central opening of the blouse fastened by brooches, rather than button and button-holes on the torso wrap kemben, the kain — an unstitched wrap fabric several metres long, erroneously termed sarong in The english language (a sarung, Malaysian accent: sarong) which is sewed to form a tube.After hundreds of years of regional acculturation, the garments have grown to be highly localized expressions of ethnic culture, artistry and tailoring customs.The earliest photographics proof of the kebaya as known today date from 1857 of Javanese, Peranakan and Orientalist stylesOutfit componentsJavanese kebaya black silk secured with kerongsang brooch, and kain batik as skirtThe essential kebaya is the Javanese kebaya as known today is essentially unchanged as noted by Raffles in 1817. It contains the blouse (kebaya) of 100 % cotton, silk, lace, brocade or velvet, with the key opening of the blouse fastened by a key brooch (kerongsang) where the flaps of the blouse meet, wore over kain.Kebaya blouseThe shirt is commonly semi-transparent and traditionally worn over the torso wrap or kemben. Kebaya blouse can be tailored tight-fitting or loose-fitting, made from various materials, from cotton or velvet, to fine silk, exquisite ribbons and brocade, desorated with stitching or glittering sequins. Today, the undergarment use under kebaya usually either corset, bra or camisole with matching colour. The particular more simple and modest undergarment wore by common community women, usually elderly women, is called kutang, which is a bra-like undergarment created from cotton.Kerongsang broochTraditional kebaya had no buttons down the front side. To secure the shirt openings in front side, a decorative metal brooch is applied on the chest. It can be made from brass, iron, silver or gold, decorated with semi-precious stones. An average three-piece kerongsang is composed of a kerongsang ibu (mother piece) that is larger and heavier than the other two kerongsang anak (child piece). Kerongsang brooch often made from gold necklaces and regarded as the indication of social status of aristocracy, wealth and nobility, however for commoners and peasant women, guaranteed basic kebaya often only attached with modest safety pin (peniti).Kain sarong or skirtKain is a long decorated clothes wrapped around the hips, guaranteed with rope and wore as a kind of sarong or skirt. The particular skirt or kain is an unstitched fabric cover around three metres long. The term sarong in English is erroneous, the sarung (Malaysian accent: sarong) is actually stitched together to form a tube, kain is unstitched, requires a helper to dress (literally wrap) the wearer and is held in place with a string (tali), then folded this string at the waist, then kept with a belt (sabuk or ikat pinggang), which may hold a ornamental pocket. In Java, Bali and Sunda, the kain is commonly batik which may be from simple stamped cotton to elaborately hand-painted batik tulis embroidered silk with gold twine. In Lampung, the kain is the traditional tapis, an elaborate gold-thread stitched ikat with small mica discs.[9] Sumatra, Flores, Lemata Timor, and other islands commonly use kain of ikat or songket. Sumba is famous for kain decorated with lau hada: shells and beads.source image kebaya muslim wisuda from fashionmuslim99.blogspot.com Thank You for Visiting this Blog
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