The earliest form of Kebaya thought was originates in the court of the 15th century Javanese Majapahit Kingdom, as a means to blend the existing female Kemban, upper body wrap of the aristocratic women, to be more modest and acceptable. During the last period of Majapahit kingdom, Islamic influence started to develop in seaside Javanese towns, thus there was a need to adapt the Javanese fashion to the newly followed Islam religion. The tailored blouse, often made from delicate sheer fabrics, were worn over kemban torso cover to cover the back again, shoulders and arms, in order for court ladies to appear more moderate. Aceh, Riau and Johor Kingdoms and Northern Sumatra adopted the Javanese style kebaya as a means of social expression of status with the more alus or refined Javanese overlords.The name of Kebaya as a particular clothing type was noted by the Portuguese when they landed in Philippines. Kebaya is associated with a type of blouse worn by Indonesian women in 15th or 16th century. Prior to 1600, kebaya on Java island were regarded as a reserved clothing to be worn only by royal family, aristocrats (bangsawan) and minimal nobility, within an era when peasant men and many women walked publicly bare-chested.An elderly Sundanese woman putting on simple kebaya, kain batik and batik headcloth, West Java.Later on, the kebaya also being adopted by commoners, the peasant women in Java. Up until this day in non-urban agricultural villages of Coffee, farmer women still utilizes simple kebaya, especially among elderly women. The daily kebaya worn by peasant were of simple materials and secured with simple pin or peniti (safety pin).Slowly it normally spread to neighbouring areas through trade, diplomacy and social interactions to Malacca, Bali, Sumatra, Borneo, Sulawesi and the Sultanate of Sulu and Mindanao.[4][5][6] Javanese kebaya as known today were noted by Stamford Raffles in 1817, as being of silk, brocade and velvet, with the main opening of the blouse fastened by brooches, rather than button and button-holes within the torso wrap kemben, the kain — an unstitched wrap material several metres long, erroneously termed sarong in British (a sarung, Malaysian accent: sarong) which is stitched to form a tube.After hundreds of years of regional acculturation, the garments are becoming highly localized expressions of ethnic culture, artistry and tailoring traditions.The earliest photographics proof of the kebaya as known today date from 1857 of Javanese, Peranakan and Orientalist stylesOutfit componentsJavanese kebaya black silk secured with kerongsang brooch, and kain batik as skirtThe quintessential kebaya is the Javanese kebaya as known today is essentially unchanged as noted by Raffles in 1817. It includes the blouse (kebaya) of natural cotton, silk, lace, brocade or velvet, with the main opening of the blouse fastened by a main brooch (kerongsang) where the flaps of the blouse meet, wore over kain.Kebaya blouseThe shirt is commonly semi-transparent and traditionally worn over the torso wrap or kemben. Kebaya blouse can be tailored tight-fitting or loose-fitting, created from various materials, from cotton or velvet, to fine silk, exquisite ribbons and brocade, desorated with stitching or glittering sequins. Today, the undergarment use under kebaya usually either corset, bra or camisole with matching colour. The more simple and modest undergarment wore by common community women, usually elderly women, is called kutang, which is a bra-like undergarment created from cotton.Kerongsang broochTraditional kebaya had no buttons down the front. To secure the blouse openings in the front, a decorative metal brooch is applied on the upper body. It can be made from brass, iron, metallic or gold, decorated with semi-precious stones. A typical three-piece kerongsang is composed of a kerongsang ibu (mother piece) that is larger and heavier than the other two kerongsang anak (child piece). Kerongsang brooch often created from gold precious jewelry and considered as the indication of social status of aristocracy, wealth and nobility, however for commoners and peasant women, simple and basic kebaya often only attached with modest safety pin number (peniti).Kain sarong or skirtKain is a long decorated clothes covered around the hips, secured with rope and wore as a kind of sarong or skirt. The skirt or kain is an unstitched fabric wrap around three metres long. The word sarong in British is erroneous, the sarung (Malaysian accent: sarong) is actually stitched together to form a tube, kain is unstitched, requires a helper to dress (literally wrap) the wearer and is held in position with a string (tali), then folded this string at the waist, then kept with a belt (sabuk or ikat pinggang), which may hold a ornamental pocket. In Java, Bali and Sunda, the kain is commonly batik which may be from simple stamped cotton to elaborately hand-painted batik tulis embroidered silk with gold line. In Lampung, the kain is the traditional tapis, an elaborate gold-thread embroidered ikat with small mica discs.[9] Sumatra, Flores, Lemata Timor, and other islands commonly use kain of ikat or songket. Sumba is famous for kain decorated with lau hada: shells and beads.
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The earliest form of Kebaya thought was originates in the court of the 15th century Javanese Majapahit Kingdom, as a means to blend the existing female Kemban, upper body wrap of the aristocratic women, to be more modest and acceptable. During the last period of Majapahit kingdom, Islamic influence started to develop in seaside Javanese towns, thus there was a need to adapt the Javanese fashion to the newly followed Islam religion. The tailored blouse, often made from delicate sheer fabrics, were worn over kemban torso cover to cover the back again, shoulders and arms, in order for court ladies to appear more moderate. Aceh, Riau and Johor Kingdoms and Northern Sumatra adopted the Javanese style kebaya as a means of social expression of status with the more alus or refined Javanese overlords.The name of Kebaya as a particular clothing type was noted by the Portuguese when they landed in Philippines. Kebaya is associated with a type of blouse worn by Indonesian women in 15th or 16th century. Prior to 1600, kebaya on Java island were regarded as a reserved clothing to be worn only by royal family, aristocrats (bangsawan) and minimal nobility, within an era when peasant men and many women walked publicly bare-chested.An elderly Sundanese woman putting on simple kebaya, kain batik and batik headcloth, West Java.Later on, the kebaya also being adopted by commoners, the peasant women in Java. Up until this day in non-urban agricultural villages of Coffee, farmer women still utilizes simple kebaya, especially among elderly women. The daily kebaya worn by peasant were of simple materials and secured with simple pin or peniti (safety pin).Slowly it normally spread to neighbouring areas through trade, diplomacy and social interactions to Malacca, Bali, Sumatra, Borneo, Sulawesi and the Sultanate of Sulu and Mindanao.[4][5][6] Javanese kebaya as known today were noted by Stamford Raffles in 1817, as being of silk, brocade and velvet, with the main opening of the blouse fastened by brooches, rather than button and button-holes within the torso wrap kemben, the kain — an unstitched wrap material several metres long, erroneously termed sarong in British (a sarung, Malaysian accent: sarong) which is stitched to form a tube.After hundreds of years of regional acculturation, the garments are becoming highly localized expressions of ethnic culture, artistry and tailoring traditions.The earliest photographics proof of the kebaya as known today date from 1857 of Javanese, Peranakan and Orientalist stylesOutfit componentsJavanese kebaya black silk secured with kerongsang brooch, and kain batik as skirtThe quintessential kebaya is the Javanese kebaya as known today is essentially unchanged as noted by Raffles in 1817. It includes the blouse (kebaya) of natural cotton, silk, lace, brocade or velvet, with the main opening of the blouse fastened by a main brooch (kerongsang) where the flaps of the blouse meet, wore over kain.Kebaya blouseThe shirt is commonly semi-transparent and traditionally worn over the torso wrap or kemben. Kebaya blouse can be tailored tight-fitting or loose-fitting, created from various materials, from cotton or velvet, to fine silk, exquisite ribbons and brocade, desorated with stitching or glittering sequins. Today, the undergarment use under kebaya usually either corset, bra or camisole with matching colour. The more simple and modest undergarment wore by common community women, usually elderly women, is called kutang, which is a bra-like undergarment created from cotton.Kerongsang broochTraditional kebaya had no buttons down the front. To secure the blouse openings in the front, a decorative metal brooch is applied on the upper body. It can be made from brass, iron, metallic or gold, decorated with semi-precious stones. A typical three-piece kerongsang is composed of a kerongsang ibu (mother piece) that is larger and heavier than the other two kerongsang anak (child piece). Kerongsang brooch often created from gold precious jewelry and considered as the indication of social status of aristocracy, wealth and nobility, however for commoners and peasant women, simple and basic kebaya often only attached with modest safety pin number (peniti).Kain sarong or skirtKain is a long decorated clothes covered around the hips, secured with rope and wore as a kind of sarong or skirt. The skirt or kain is an unstitched fabric wrap around three metres long. The word sarong in British is erroneous, the sarung (Malaysian accent: sarong) is actually stitched together to form a tube, kain is unstitched, requires a helper to dress (literally wrap) the wearer and is held in position with a string (tali), then folded this string at the waist, then kept with a belt (sabuk or ikat pinggang), which may hold a ornamental pocket. In Java, Bali and Sunda, the kain is commonly batik which may be from simple stamped cotton to elaborately hand-painted batik tulis embroidered silk with gold line. In Lampung, the kain is the traditional tapis, an elaborate gold-thread embroidered ikat with small mica discs.[9] Sumatra, Flores, Lemata Timor, and other islands commonly use kain of ikat or songket. Sumba is famous for kain decorated with lau hada: shells and beads.
